Letters page for Professional Builder online. If something is troubling you or if you have any other comments on the world of building, let’s hear it. Email pb@hamerville.co.uk or write to: Dear PB…Professional Builder, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Through our extensive manufacturer network, Professional Builder has access to some of the best technical brains in the industry. If we don’t know the answer to a building-related problem ourselves, we almost certainly know someone who does. From cover to cover, eleven times a year, every page of Professional Builder is filled with crucial information for builders everywhere. It is written by hands-on experts in their respective fields, individuals who understand the building business. Professional Builder contains the best, most up to date, accurate information on materials, tools, techniques and deals as well as business matters, including office management, editorial on tax, money, planning etc.

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LETTERS

Letter of the month

IN THE ZONE
Dear PB
I am a building contractor and, while negotiating with both my builders’ merchant, which is a national chain, and sub-contractors to cover in two new bungalows currently under construction, I was surprised by the lack of knowledge of the zonal method – the specification for fixing new tiles on the roof of new units. Not sure if you have covered this before but, having spoken to the manufacturer, Sandtoft, they agreed there is a distinct lack of knowledge, even though I believe it has been a requirement by the insurance warranty providers – NHBC etc – for a few years now.

Paul Shaw, via email

PB says: Your suggestion is a good one. We have, in fact, touched upon The Zonal Method, which takes into account the location and likely maximum wind speed, but it is true to say that many roofers work on the assumption that what has worked before will continue to work. But, as we all know, the weather is getting more unpredictable, so we need to look again at what we do in the way of fixings.

CRUSH HOUR
Dear PB
I have to take up an old patio and then lay type one as a base and then put a new Indian Sandstone patio on top. I think I remember you showed some mini crushers that would crunch up concrete and paving. The only trouble is the narrow alley won't let me get a machine in. How mini are they?

Paul Kiernan, Northampton

PB says: You can hire a mini crusher (LEE Colin Gale has a number of a bloke who hires out these crushers) and they will easily turn the old slabs and concrete into a good granular sub-base. It will save you a skip and and a load of type one. As far as the alley goes there is every chance that you can get a crusher down there. This one from Taylor Construction Plant is just 700mm wide.

SILL STANDING
Dear PB
I have a renovation to do and I need to renew some of the stone sills and mullions. I need to match it up but haven't a clue where to find a stone mason to do this job and I don't know the stone.

Derek Troutman, Mevagissey, Cornwall

PB says: The best thing to do is to use cast stone (concrete) which looks ever bit as good as the real thing to the untrained eye. Contact Forticrete and send them some pictures of your project. If they haven't got it they can make it and they will try and match the colour as best they can. Take a look at their range on http://www.forticrete.co.uk/catalogue/29/cast-stone.html

TILE COUNCIL
Dear PB
Is it possible to lay ceramic tiles straight onto floorboards? I have a bathroom to tile but can't afford to add any height to the floor.

Ian Slater, Hexford, Northumberland

PB says: In most cases we would advise against laying directly onto floorboards. If you can't manage to lay plywood on top then the best thing is to take the boards up and screw down some plywood sheets. However, if the floor boards are well fixed down and you can eliminate movement, including bounce in the joists, then it is possible to lay onto floorboard using a flexible tile adhesive and grout. You can also lay self levelling screed onto boards to even them out but plywood is easier.

ELECTRIC AVENUE
Dear PB
I have been asked to put some underfloor heating in a bathroom and I don't know whether to go for electric or water pipes. Can you tell me the pros and cons?

Peter Jackson, Great Yarmouth

PB says: Electric underfloor heating is really better suited to bathrooms and kitchens where you have ceramic tiles, and only occasional use, so it can go on a time and respond quickly. It acts as a tile warm up rather than a heating system. Presumably in the bathroom you will also have a towel rail which adds a bit more heat. You will need an RCD and a timer.

Warm water underfloor heating is better suited to screed floors but will work in suspended floors in a pipe in plate system. In screeds it takes longer to warm up and call down but gives a more even heat and is cheaper to run that electric. You can get single zone packs and will be able to run it straight off the existing heating flow and return.